This winter was a bit strange, but spring has not been strange, it has been spring, yes, yes… Cold, rain, little sun, powder snow and good skis, rain, all the climbing schools dripping, more powder snow, good skis, too much snow for my mountaineering!
The Brenta Dolomites are the westernmost of the massif, known above all for the Campanille Basso and the ferrata de le Bocchete. Last year, together with Dani Ascaso and Iker Madoz, we did a good direct repetition of “Lisa degli Occhi blu”, a very surreal mountain route in the middle of the Dolomites, very little known but with great importance.
In this case, it is Emanuele Andreozzi who invites me to the party, he agrees with Matteo Faletti to try to climb the itinerary in question. Emanuele has climbed three times in the last days to the base of the itinerary to check conditions; and it is about 3 hours of trekking to reach there!
With Matteo Faletti we gave a somewhat suicidal attempt at the beginning of the season one day of bad weather to a project near Brenta, but the avalanches that began to fall before dawn made us give up.
So I take advantage of it and get on the day before the meeting with Emanuele and Matteo, with my good friend Marco Bassot to ski the incredible Canalone Neri, a 900-meter uneven corridor with a 50 grades incline in its initial part. We truly enjoyed it.
On Wednesday the 19th. Emanuele and Matteo arrive at the bivouac just below the Cima Tosa at 9:30 p.m. We slept little and early on, I find myself tied up for the first time with the young Emanuele and the experienced Matteo, under a wall of almost 1000 metres. It is 2:30 a.m., Emanuele starts with the first pitch. The snow has hardened a lot and allows us to progress quite safely. The protections are very random, so you have to climb with great precision and tenacity. We let Emanuele bring us the sunrise, at 5:30 on an alpine ice of doubtful quality but that continues to allow us to progress.
The day passes by with all types of mountaineering activities, from stiff ice to cooked alpine ice, to snow, to the sun, to snowfall, the long 18° of modern mix gives a spectacular departure to this incredible itinerary, which we culminate at 19:00 with a very special sunset. I have no words to describe an adventure that ends 21 hours later, enjoying a beer in Matteo's van...
Once again the passion for mountaineering and motivation, has made that as a climber everything has flowed at its best, what we share and how we share it in those moments is unique, love, friendship, thank you.
Santi Padrós dixit.
"Pazzione Primavernale" / 1.000 metres / AI6 & M7 Cima Tosa (Brenta Dolomites).