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Decisive week for Alex Txikon in Manaslu


The expedition leaded by Alex Txikon reaches the 6,650 metres mark and enters in the decisive week.

If the weather forecast is maintained and the plans are not altered by some unforeseen event, at the beginning of next week they could try to attack the summit.

05 / 02 / 2021

To do this, they must continue to gain altitude in next few days, equipping a route that has not been climbed before. According to Txikon, “we are moderately optimistic. We have to continue working at the same pace and not find any surprises. In the mountains you never know, but if things go according to plan, early next week we could try it.

"It’s not being a simple job. Although it is true the weather is good in recent days, they had to change plans on more than one occasion, winging more than one step. “The first obstacle we found was a huge crack separating C1 from C2 by its usual route. We thought we could jump it with stairs but it was impossible,” explains Txikon. Return to base camp and planning change. After analyzing various possibilities, the team chose to ascend by a “route located further to the right, but many meters had to be equipped. Cheppal, Kalden, Namja and I took a hell of a beating trying to climb slowly from C1 to C2. We managed to equip 400 meters of rope and we went back down to base camp to rest”, he continues.

“Simone Moro and his team took over from us and climbed 250 more meters from where we left, and Iñaki Álvarez, accompanied by Sherpa Gelum, carried more material. While Simone and company were gaining altitude, we took the opportunity to climb more than 1,000 meters of rope, stakes, stairs… from BC to C1. We finished and we were dead. We spent the night in C1”, analyzes from base camp Alex Txikon.

“Yesterday, finally, we got it. After uploading all the equipment, we could equip C2 and overcome it, reaching 6,650 meters and placing us a little below C3. The route we use is unique and beautiful. It is, without a doubt, a very alpine route, where we had to use ice axes and crampons and work hard. Tonight, after coming down from C2, we spent it in base camp and we will rest a few more days here. It has been very hard work, exhausting”, explains the Basque alpinist.

Today was Simone Moro’s turn, after Txikon told him the ascent route used yesterday, he has carried material up to 6,500 meters. "Now it’s time to rest and, as soon as we recover, and if everything goes according to plan, we will try the first summit attack," he concludes.

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