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ALEX TXIKON


 

"The true summit is reached when the entire team returns safely to base camp"

 

Who I Am

 

I was born in Lemoa (Basque Country) in the heart of winter in 1981 — perhaps that’s where my passion for winter expeditions comes from. I’m also the youngest of my siblings, which may explain my deep belief in teamwork. Mountains and team spirit have been an inseparable combination throughout my career. I simply don’t understand the mountains unless they are shared.

I’m passionate about traveling, discovering different cultures, and learning the history of each place and mountain through the people who live there. At 21, I reached the summit of my first eight-thousander: Broad Peak (8,047m) in the Pakistani Karakoram. That was the beginning of my journey through the mountains of the world.

 

Equipador de vías

Soy un activo equipador de vías, en especial de dry tooling

Expedición al Shivling

En el 2002 participé en una expedición al Shivling en el Himalaya Indio

D12 dry tooling y 8a escalada

He conseguido encadenar hasta D12 en dry tooling y 8a en escalada deportiva

Salto base

He abierto algunos de los primeros saltos bases del valle de Benasque

Pistero socorrista

Llevo 24 años trabajando como pistero socorrista en la estación de esquí de Cerler


 

My Journey

 

I have taken part in more than 30 expeditions and have summited 11 of the 14 eight-thousanders (the world’s 14 mountains rising above 8,000 meters), having climbed Shishapangma twice — bringing my total to 12 summits above 8,000 meters.

Over the past decade, I have focused on winter Himalayan expeditions. Particularly significant was the achievement in winter 2016, when alongside Pakistani climber Ali Sadpara and Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, I reached the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,126m). More recently, in January 2023, I summited Manaslu (8,163m). On both occasions, these were pure winter expeditions carried out without supplementary oxygen.

 

 

Mi esencia outdoor

 

Cuando salgo a la montaña siempre llevo... Mi cámara de fotos.

Si quisiera enganchar a alguien a la escalada le llevaría a… Cualquiera de las montañas del valle de Benasque. No me cabe duda de que después de verlas, se engancharía para siempre.

Cuando no estoy en la montaña estoy… Con mi familia, disfrutando de ellos.

Lo más importante que he aprendido gracias a la escalada es... Que la vida es ahora. Hay que disfrutar el momento, sin mirar demasiado atrás ni obsesionarse con lo que vendrá.

El paisaje o momento vivido en la montaña que nunca olvidaré es... He vivido paisajes increíbles por medio mundo, pero me quedo con los atardeceres de La Mancha. La tierra tira mucho, y esa luz sigue siendo única.

 

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