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OLIVIER GAJEWSKI


 

"In mountaineering, it’s not physical condition or technique that is decisive, but motivation"

Who I Am

 

I was born in Paris but grew up in Annecy, in the French Haute-Savoie — a place where the mountains are part of everyday life. I started climbing and skiing at just six years old, and since then the mountains have been the central axis of my life. However, everything truly began when, at the age of 20, I joined the Mountain Rescue Service of the Gendarmerie (PGHM). After five years with the PGHM, I passed the entrance exam to the International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (UIAGM) guide school.

The year 2024 and the winter of 2024–2025 were probably the most defining period of my career. In seven months, I climbed the six most iconic north faces of the Alps (Grandes Jorasses, Matterhorn, Eiger, Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Petit Dru, and Piz Badile), including three ascents of the Grandes Jorasses.

In 2025, I decided to move to Poland to reconnect with my origins and discover the country’s strong culture and history of winter climbing.

 

Grandes Jorasses – Gousseault / Demaison

Without a doubt, the best route I’ve climbed on this face, to which I feel deeply connected.

Matterhorn – Bonatti Direct

A route that is part of mountaineering history.

Trip to Taghia, Morocco

My last trip with the Young Alpinists Team of Chamonix — a group that gave me invaluable experience during my early years.

2025: A Year in Poland

A year dedicated to discovering my roots and immersing myself in the rich culture of winter climbing.

Corsica

The island where it all truly began, where I learned the essentials during my first assignment with the PGHM — a two-year chapter of my life.

 

My Journey

 

I remain highly motivated and eager to continue building my path in the mountains. I still have many plans and projects in the Alps.

At the same time, I believe it is important to cultivate passions outside the mountain world. Recently, I’ve found great fulfillment in horse riding. Being in nature in a different way and building a connection with the animal creates very special and unique moments for me.

 

My Outdoor Essence

My Outdoor Essence

 

When I head to the mountains, I always bring… Something to enjoy at the summit.

If I wanted to introduce someone to climbing, I would take them to… Without hesitation, the Perrons de Vallorcine traverse in the Mont Blanc massif. It offers a great perspective, relatively safe terrain, no glacier approach, and incredible views — exactly what’s needed to enjoy a beautiful climb and fall in love with the activity.

When I’m not in the mountains, I’m… Resting — since I spend as much time in the mountains as I possibly can.

The most important thing climbing has taught me is… Patience.

A mountain moment I will never forget… Standing on the summit of the Grandes Jorasses on New Year’s Eve after climbing the Gousseault–Demaison — the hardest route I had done up to that point. Watching fireworks after an incredible year in the mountains (having climbed the six great north faces and much more) was an immense reward.

 

 

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